Room For Two – SO/ Paris, France

Reviewed by Matthew Brace

Standing tall and proud on the north bank of the Seine, a short walk from Notre-Dame and the boutique-lined streets of Le Marais, is SO/ Paris. It’s one of the most romantic hotels Paris has produced for years. It’s chic, sophisticated and has a stunning, sky-high restaurant and bar, each of which is perfect for a discreet sunset champagne proposal as you gaze out over the Parisian rooftops to the Eiffel Tower.

Overview

SO/ Paris is where fashion meets hospitality so don’t be surprised to see models and designers air-kissing like crazy in the lobby. The staff are dressed in smart, sassy sailor-boy and -girl outfits designed just for the hotel but there’s a lot more to them than just their cool clothes; they are charming and welcoming, and go above and beyond to help. Their impeccable service complements the hotel’s elegant design, great food, super-cool bar and stellar views. One of the superb concierges became our unofficial guide and local expert, helping us with everything from restaurant tables to river cruises. She was young but a natural at her job and full of confidence and smiles.

Look and feel

We were greeted with smiles by the nautically dressed front desk team and escorted through the high-ceilinged lobby. ‘Mind the steps’ they said and we were glad they did because we were distracted by design above our heads. Fluted, white columns rise to the ceiling, lit by warm, ochre lights. It’s Paris’s newest cathedral and a sight to see.

At the far end of the lobby is a dramatic, floral glass sculpture which tempts you closer. We sat marvelling at it as we sipped our delicious green tea, lemon, ginger and berry welcome drinks.

The use of bold colours continues in the rooms, where there are blond-wood finishes, rich ochre and rouge carpets and soft lighting from subtle, wood-shaded lamps. At Bonnie restaurant and bar the style is more 1950s/1960s, with chrome lights, velvet armchairs and lots of mirrors.

It’s chic, not showy; stylish not gaudy. There are plenty of other luxury hotels in Paris that revel in over-the-top interiors but SO/ Paris has created something subtler and much more sophisticated.

Best room for two

The hotel’s height and the fact that there are no tall buildings nearby means the views are spectacularly romantic. Most couples will crave a view of the Eiffel Tower, in which case try to get a Collection – Rooftop room (25sqm) on the south or west side of the hotel. That view will also include Notre-Dame, the Panthéon, the Seine and about a million other monuments

The north and east flanks of the building offer good views too, over Le Marais and La Bastille with its dazzling, gold-painted Spirit of Freedom statue. At sunrise and sunset, these views remind you just how white the stone of this City of Light looks, especially compared with the grey of London or other northern European cities.

We had a Collection – Rooftop room looking north, which we found spacious (very spacious for Paris) and warm and cosy after cold days tramping the streets. It had a large walk-in shower, one of the most comfortable beds we have experienced and wooden screens and standard lamps reminiscent of Japanese ryokans. We also had our very own pet: a black, wireless speaker in the shape of a French bulldog wearing sunglasses.

If views are not a dealbreaker for you and you’re going to be hitting the streets and sights all day, go for one of the lower-floor Collection rooms (25sqm). You’ll still get the full vista at breakfast every morning at Bonnie restaurant up on the 15^th floor.

Although breakfast at Bonnie is a thrill (see Food and drink) as we sipped tea in bed in our room and watched the rising sun set the Spirit of Freedom statue on fire we did contemplate staying under the covers all day.

If money is no object, check out the suites: an Atelier suite offers 57sqm and 180^o views, while the SO/ Paris Suite is a whopping 85sqm corner suite on the 14^th floor with cracking views, two balconies, a spa bathroom and a hammam shower.

Food and drink

OK, get ready for one of the most romantic breakfast spots ever. You’ll be up on the 15^th floor of the hotel at Bonnie restaurant, looking out over the rooftops, garrets and chimneys of Paris, with a host of sights to see: Notre-Dame is in the foreground, the vast dome of the Panthéon a little further off, and way out west is the Eiffel Tower. Running between them all is the beautiful Seine, arguably the most romantic river on the planet.

While you gaze open-mouthed at this beautiful scene, you can tuck into Eggs Benedict, smoked salmon, crêpes and more croissants and pains au chocolat than you can throw a baguette at.

The waiters and waitresses are dressed to the nines and totally charming. Any ideas you had about Paris and Parisians being snooty and aloof will evaporate instantly at SO/ Paris. They make the whole breakfast experience a delight. If only Bonnie would move the tables slightly further apart it would be perfect – we felt a little jammed in on our first day and were, unfortunately, next to some very loud and hungover guests. The next morning we got there earlier and had more space.

Bonnie also serves lunch and dinner. The truffled grilled cheese, king crab salad and sea bass in smoked broth are all to-die-for dishes. Next door on the same floor, is Bonnie bar, a super-hip spot with floor-to-ceiling windows offering unparalleled views over Le Marais and La Bastille. Settle in, order some lobster tacos, champagne or Grapevine cocktails (cognac, vermouth and tonka bean) and watch the sunset cast a salmon pink glow over northern Paris.

Sustainability

SO/ Paris is 100% free of single-use plastic. It also recycles glass, metal, plastic, paper, compost and almost all its waste.

The kitchens are fitted with a system called Orbisk, which automatically recognises and measures what kinds of food are thrown away. This helps the hotel reduce its food waste.

All rooms are equipped with energy-saving systems that automatically turn off lights and A/C when guests leave their rooms. Also, when we arrived the check-in team were helpful in letting us know about greener transport options such as renting bicycles and electric scooters for free.

Couples will love

Some of the largest hotel rooms in Paris, the chic and sophisticated design, the romantic splendour of Bonnie restaurant, genuinely welcoming staff, possibly the coolest bar in the city… and, oh those views!

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Book via the SO/ Paris website https://so-hotels.com/en/, call +33 (0) 1 78 90 74 00 or email soparis@so-hotels.com.